Fishing the Salt Flats in Tulum, Mexico
Upon arriving at the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge eagerly at 7:30 am, we noticed the place was by now swinging. Tourists and locals were finishing up breakfast and the guides were getting the last of their equipment within the boats while being knowledgeably directed by Chico, the general manager and the primary host of the property. Obviously this was not the first occasion these guys had done this, in actual fact, Boca Paila has been in existance since the late 1960s. To say these guys are pioneers of fishing in this area is an understatement, they were the only game in town back then and it was a two hour drive from Tulum, not 20 to 30 minutes as it is now.
We came for the fishing and they were prepared for us. Subsequent to momentary introductions with Chico, he informed us that our boat and guide Alfonso had been by now waiting on the pier for us. A quick examination of our tackle and off we went. Chico made certain we also had a number of the very best flies and jigs on behalf of the region and season before we departed and handed those to our guide Alfonso. Following, he personally escorted us to the boat.
Once on the water, Alfonso didnt squander much time and we took off across the glass lagoon seeking our first fish of the day. There was a brief stop at a cut within the lagoon, where it meets the ocean, and Alfonso said we needed to stop for something there. Without giving freely all the secrets of the area, the stop proved to be relatively beneficial in the course of the day.
Following the stop, where the lagoon meets sea, we made our path to the opening of many of what I imagine are Alfonsos preferred spots inside this magical lagoon. There awaited, at the very least, 30 miles of nearly unaffected and guarded wetlands and interconnected unaffected waterways.
Alfonso killed the engine as we arrived at the opening spot and he started poling us across the black rooted mangrove shoreline as he surveyed the water with his proficient vision. Within 10 minutes, he saw the bone fish and we were directed to “11 ‘o clock about 30 feet out,” and then the rapid plea to “strip it, strip it, strip it!” We followed our guides command and bingo, my Dad had our primary fish on. Inside two minutes, an additional good sized bone fish was caught and released by me. This was going to be fun!
Further along the shore, Alfonso continued to scrutinize the waters from his 3 foot platform on behalf of the next catch. This occasion, it was Permit and I had one on the line. If you have never caught a Permit fish with a fly rod or maybe light tackle, its difficult to explain just how much entertainment it genuinely is. It had been a run of the mill size for the locale, about 10 pounds but it fought for 15 minutes before relenting, and following a quick photo, released. What a charge and what a ravishing fish!
A variety more Bone Fish and a mixed bag of Jack, Mud Snapper and Porgy and off we went to the next spot. I thought to myself, if many more of the spots are like that, one of my arms may not make it the day. We had various issues using the line on my rod and had to return to the lodge for more line. Alfonso made the adjustments in no time and we were back up and running.
Subsequent to about an hour of poling along in the briny waters near our opening prize pool we had caught a number more of the undesired Snappers, Jack and Porgy so we decided to move down again. I ought to remark that there is seldom a dull instant on the lagoon. Even when you arent catching fish, theres a lot to see. In the course of the day, we in all probability saw twelve rays of varied species and witnessed a number of cases of Mullet boiling, bursting and leaping from the water to flee from a striking Barracuda and countless birds of numerous species and colors. We also saw a nesting couple of Sea Eagles (Osprey).
We crossed the lagoon at elevated speed for afternoon fishing before gliding in, engine off and back to the poling for Alfredo. I should mention that Boca Paila Fishing Lodge has an especially able fisherman and guide in Alfons. I didnt see a 10th of what he spotted for us, of course he was sitting up 3 feet higher than us, but he was amazing.
Just before lunch, I got into my second Permit and this one was closer to 15 pounds and he wanted to run. The Permit are relatively common within the Tulum, Boca Paila area of the lagoon so I shouldnt have been overly surprised to catch sight of Alfonso making lunch while I fought this fish. What did surprise me was that when I said “I think he’s coming in, grab the net”, Alfonso didnt jump. The fish gave me my answer when he took off on another long run and I caught a wry smile from Alfonso and went back to my fish. Another 10 minutes and I did ultimately land that one, and yes, Alfonso had the net equipped this occasion.
Subsequent to lunch, which was wonderful by the way, a ham sandwich, chips and a beer. After being in the sun for 4 to 5 hours, it had been one of the best lunches I have had in a while and Alfonso showed us the Mexican way of adding some hot sauce into the sandwiches…it was excellent. We moved nearer to shore and once more started to stalk the next catch, it had been hot and the fishing seemed to slow a little inside the afternoon heat, but Alfonso was persistent and when he caught me sitting on the bow he demanded that I stand up. “You can’t catch fish sitting down…stand up !” I was up straight away and was somewhat embarrassed but that ended instantly after I hooked into an additional Permit, this one was somewhat smaller, in all probability 8 pounds but the fight lasted 10 minutes and the thrill was without doubt not gone.
We stalked a number more small groups of Bone Fish and Permit pairs, landing a couple more run of the mill sized Bone Fish before moving on once again. This time, as we came across the new spot, Alfonso informed us that this was a large channel and one of the deeper parts of the lagoon. Still only twelve to fifteen feet deep but we changed up the tackle and went to a large jig with a significant leader. I am guessing about 20 to 25 pound test.
This is where things got very attention-grabbing. We must have hit that channel as a school of baitfish were passing through or had just passed because it was a feeding frenzy! The first casts for both my father and I produced two large Snook inside the 20 pound range, pretty good fights for both, but pound for pound I believe the Permit is hard to beat. In any case, as things progressed, and cast after cast produced larger and larger Snook, I started thinking about the obscure Super Slam, Bone Fish, Permit, Snook and Tarpon. I would have been thrilled to have such an incredible day and fall short but then, as if on queue, an additional whopping strike and out of the water it flew, the Tarpon ran past the boat at full speed then made a run back with another spectacular leap. While it was relatively small for Tarpon at about 10 pounds, it was the icing on an ideal day of fishing.
We stayed at the channel another 20 minutes or so and I was so tired and completely satisfied that I handed my rod to Alfonso and watched him catch a few more Snook while my Dad did the same and brought in a few more Bone Fish of respectable measure.
All in all, I must say that this was the best day of fishing EVER. Between the company, the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge services and the brilliant variety of fish we caught, this one is going to be tough to beat. I want to once more personally thank the personnel at Boca Paila for this glorious experience we are going to both always remember!
Ron Williams has been a freelance adventure critic staying year round within Tulum, Mexico specializing in vacation info about playa del carmen hotel accommodations plus life in the Yucatan Peninsula. Feel free to drop a line to Ron directly if you would like local recommendations as well as information for experiencing a tremendous journey inside Yucatan Tulum Hotel.
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