The Joys of Tobogganing Without Snow
The sub-tropical island of Madeira is a frequent port of call for the many luxury cruise liners that criss-cross the Atlantic. It is also a favourite haven for young newly weds. However, for many people, it is a section of the holiday brochures that often goes neglected.
Regretfully, Madeira is often considered to be a dull island with nothing much happening to beckon the holidaying visitor.
This is definitely a misunderstanding that should be addressed.
The fragile wicker sleds of the mountainous village of Monte are just one example of the unmatched attractions that the Madeiran Archipelago can boast of.
Traditionally, transport in Funchal, the capital city of Madeira, did not include wheeled carriages. The unsophisticated cobblestone roads, steep hills and sharp bends, meant that horse drawn carriages and, later, automobiles were regarded as unbefitting. Rather, the locals opted for various other, more original, forms of conveyance.
Unsophisticated wooden carriages, mounted on wooden runners, lubricated with grease and pulled at a sedate pace by oxen were a favourite. These “carros de bois” were reported to have been introduced to the island by a British Army Officer who required a means of conveying his invalid wife about town.
Whilst travelling by the carros de bois was acceptable on the level, it was, of course, a painfully slow way to climb the steep inclines that predominate the landscape as soon as you leave the narrow coastal plain.
Another, peculiarly Madeiran, means of conveyance was the travelling hammock. Here, a length of cloth was slung between a couple of long wooden poles. Two men, one at the front and one to the rear, would lift the assemblage in a fashion rather akin to that of a sedan chair. The occupant of the hammock, usually a female, was thus transported in what must have been a rather awkward fashion.
The transporting hammock was markedly popular with British society women who were resident on the island in the 1700s. Often, to the glee of their fare, the hammock bearers would sing in the local Portuguese language as they made their progress. A tip for this additional service was invariably given. What the passenger did not realise was that frequently the songs were exceedingly disparaging of their customer. It is said that on one occasion the bearers of a rather hefty customer were singing to the effect: “The fare we are allowed to charge is fixed, but just look at the proportions of this load!”
The mountainous village of Monte was no exception when it came to the modes of transport employed. Incommodious oxen drawn carts and hammocks were the accepted way to transfer both people and goods.
Progress, in every sense of the word, was slow. The three mile journey down from Monte into Funchal could take anything up to three hours.
However, the run from Monte into the heart of the capital was one long, steep, downward slope. Accordingly, it was perhaps inevitable that one day, in the late 1840s, one of the locals decided to explore a more radical form of transport. By mounting a fragile wicker basket on two ski-like wooden runners it was observed that you could glide headlong down the hill and reach the city centre in a mere 10 minutes.
The logistics were simple. All that was needed was one enormous push to get going and someone to stand on the back end to steer. In no distance at all, you would soon reach speeds of up to 48 kilometres per hour.
All of a sudden, there was a swift, and uncostly, means of transit from the outlying mountain village into the fiscal centre of the island – the snow less, Monte wicker basket sleigh was hence unveiled.
Further, the local inhabitants soon realized that opulent Europeans and Americans would take the excursion just for pleasure – hence, the original Madeira tourist attraction was produced. Indeed, Ernest Hemingway famously described his Monte toboggan wicker basket sled ride as the “most exhilarating experience” of his life.
Today, the toboggans persist, but they are for the holiday-makers only. Two carreiros guides, dressed in traditional white with straw hats, will send you down a shortened route from Monte.
There are no seat belts and the only retarding device you can rely on is the rubber sole of your driver’s shoe. The views can be remarkable, if short-lived and the usual souvenir photo awaits you at your journey’s end.
The joyride is priced rather expensively by Madeiran values. But, if you want to treat yourself to an experience that you are unlikely to find anywhere else, then give the Monte toboggans a go.
Robert James B.Sc (Hons) created the extensive Madeira Tourist Guide at http://www.love-madeira.com. He has been a freelance writer and traveller for over 30 years and has had many articles published in the trade press.
For further information, read the Monte Toboggans Guide
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