To Bespoke or Not to Bespoke
A couple of weeks back I bagged an invite to the Orange British Academy Film Awards – a black tie event. I’d never worn a tuxedo before but managed to borrow one from a mate at the last minute. The jacket sleeves were too long, I had clown trousers and my shirt clearly wasn’t designed for a bow tie. This might have gone unnoticed at most events but not when you find yourself flanking Hollywood star Claire Danes on a red carpet in front of thousands. Time to invest in a proper suit.
Being a mod revivalist at heart I’ve always been fascinated by the fashion and in particular a bespoke three-piece, but never ventured further than a fishtail parka, Fred Perry polo shirt and trusty pair of Clarks Originals. In the world of lapels, linings and double breasts I’m a novice, so I headed for Savile Row, the ‘golden mile of tailoring’, for a crash course in couture cloths and cuts. Most Savile Row tailors offer three levels of service: bespoke, made- to-measure and ready-to-wear.
Bespoke means the garment is custom-made, guaranteeing the best fit and best fabric. Made-to-measure is a pre-made suit modified to fit the client. Ready-to-wear, or off the peg, are suits you simply pick up and purchase as they are. So what makes the perfect suit? A combination of good cutting and high-quality tailoring. It has to be good quality cloth and a fit that suits the individual. A suit should enhance the good parts of your figure and hide the bad.
This all sounds lovely but incredibly expensive and, unfortunately, we can’t all shop in Mayfair and be able to pick up the bill. Now I’m not saying venture down the Old Kent Road for your ‘whistle and flute’ but surely there’s a compromise?
You could always cheat: the Savile Row Company has a naughty little outlet store on eBay with suits, shirts and ties all at 70 per cent off.
But why trudge all the way to Savile Row when you can let Savile Row come to you? Charlie Collingwood, 31, is managing director of Henry Herbert Tailors, which provides a suit service on a scooter.
‘A tailor on a Vespa turns up wherever or whenever is good for the client – I’m reversing the Savile Row process. The principle benefits are convenience and cost, because we don’t have the expensive overheads of retail space on Savile Row. We still make our suits in the traditional way: by hand, in England, using only English and Scottish cloths. The standards are as high but the costs are a lot lower.’
Visit Henry Herbert for your perfectly tailored suits.
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