Wild Travel in Rangoon Burma
Arriving in Yangon I felt like I had taken a leap back in time . One reason for this is that since 1962 Burma has been ruled by The State Law & Order Restoration Council (Slorc), now known as the State Peace & Development Council (SPDC). The name ‘Union of Myanmar’ was appointed by the military regime in 1989. Tourism before 1989 was basically non existent, and when internet became available connections were legal only for the government, tourist offices, and a few large businesses. Other than CNN, the BBC and Coca Cola, there is very little Western influence in this part of the world.
There are no, McDonalds, very few grocery/convenience stores, no pubs/bars and very few “restaurants.” At night, locals sit at small tables on the sidewalk sipping tea and eating rice and noodles. By 10:00 PM the streets are almost empty and much of the city has gone to sleep. During this time of the year I’d bet on the heat (average temperature 38-40) as being a reason for this lifestyle. Vendors line the streets from just before sunrise until the early evening selling everything from fruits and tasty bug treats to sarongs and jeans, while shop owners are more likely to sell televisions, cameras or books. Once you get accustomed to consistent power outages, run-ins with cockroaches and touts that want your U.S. dollars, life in Yangon starts to become a very pleasant, unique and fascinating place.
Money Issues
Arriving at the Yangon airport, every foreigner entering the country must exchange $200 for 200 Foreign Exchange Certificates (FECs). This would naturally make you assume that 1$ equals 1 FEC. Not exactly. FECs can be used anywhere, however, it is advisable to use FECs where the price is quoted in dollars, such as hotels, since prices in Kyat (the local currency) will be converted at a terrible rate if you want to pay in FECs. If you want to exchange less than $200, it is possible, but only if you offer a standard $5 “gift” to the bank teller at the airport. If you have any FECs left at the end of your trip and want to convert them to dollars, you’ll get a horrible rate. It would be much easier if you could just convert dollars for Kyat, but for some reason this logic eludes the government.
Example of What Not To Do
When I left the airport, I shared a cab with an American who was teaching English in Japan. His behavior in the taxi was a great example of what not to do when you arrive in a foreign country. First, he had no idea of the history or political situation in the country. Hard to believe, but quite evident when we were talking to the cab driver and his associate. Second, he changed a significant amount of U.S. dollars for Kyat with the associate without knowing what the going exchange rate was. There is an official pegged rate, but on the street the rate is significantly different. Finally, he accepted to stay at a hotel recommended by the driver that was seriously over-priced and quite a ways from the city centre. This would have been obvious to him if he would have spent all of ten minutes looking at a map and reading up on the country. When he exited the cab and the drivers took me to the place I told them, they offered to take me to a place that was half the price and twice as close to the city centre. In other words, if you’re getting a good deal on a taxi, there’s a good chance they’ll try to get some extra money out of you in another way.
Thanakha
When I arrived at my hotel in Yangon, a very nice English-speaking lady greeted me. As she approached I noticed that she had yellow powder on her face. The next day, as I wandered around town, I noticed that the vast majority of women had this powder on their face in various shapes and patterns. The powder is known locally as thanakha, and it is a cosmetic made from tree bark. It serves to beautify and protect the skin from the sun. The main ingredient can only be found in Northern Myanmar, and when mixed with a few drops of water you have the final product. Apparently, it not only protects the skin, but smells very nice and makes the user feel refreshed and beautiful. Sounds like something L’Oréal might want to get their hands on! Women of all social classes wear it, and even though western cosmetics can now be found in the country, most women still choose to use thanakha.
Where’s the Beef? Or Chicken? Or Anything…
The first night I was in Yangon, I thought to myself “I love this place! Very few tourists and very little visible western influence.” Of course, when I went looking for dinner, I spent quite a while wandering before I found a restaurant that I thought would be safe for my stomach. As it turns out, I should have gone in the other direction as most of the restaurants are located in a small area of town. Since I couldn’t see what they were serving on the streets, I didn’t want to take my chance with vendor food. This place was one of a handful that tries its best to live up to western standards, catering to the rich crowd and expats. My can of real Coke cost the same amount as my plate of noodles and chicken. Through trial and error, I eventually figured out that local soft drinks, which are extremely cheap, are only worth buying if they come in a glass bottle. Anything in a plastic bottle will be flat within fifteen minutes to an hour! As I started to chow down, a group of locals got up on the stage and started to belt out tunes by Ricky Martin, Britney Spears, Enrique Iglesias and company at the karaoke machine – and the crowd seemed to love it. Though slightly reserved and mumbled, it was great entertainment for my first night in town!
Adapting
Foreigners stand out here like as they do all over Asia, but there is an added dimension in Myanmar. Almost everyone, with the exception of some rich locals, wear sarongs. Nobody wears shorts. In keeping with the local customs, my first destination was the Bogyoke Aung San Market so that I could find myself a stylish sarong, known locally as a longyi. As it turns out, wearing my longyi for the entire duration of my trip was the smartest move I made. Though it felt kind of strange wearing this dress-like attire, it allowed me to stay cool and fit in with the locals. Not only that, but I actually got quite a few thumbs up and smiles from people around town. It was as if they were saying “thanks for trying sir, but you still look like a goof.” A few even undid their longyi to show me how to tie it properly.
You’re probably quite likely to spend a fair amount of time at the markets, as they are the liveliest spots in town, and are far more exciting than many of the largely ignored local museums. As I wandered around the market and chatted with a few locals trying to sell me items such as the Bangkok Post and wanting to change my precious U.S. dollars for Kyat, I noticed another item that was not so common in the other countries I had visited.
Betel Nut Betel Nut Betel Nut
Did you know that after nicotine, ethanol and caffeine, betel nut is the fourth most widely used drug in the world? Have you ever heard of betel nut? On my first day wandering around the market, I spoke to quite a few people who had really badly stained burgundy teeth. They all seemed to be chewing something, but I had no idea what. I found out that it was a widely available leaf that they shoved into their mouths. Betel nut, in its ready-to-use form, is sold in quids. A quid is basically a triangular-shaped betel leaf with slaked lime (mixed with water) wrapped up with thin slices of betel nut and some cutch (dry, brown, astringent extract that contains a large portion of tannin or tannic acid) in the middle. In Myanmar’s past, betel was associated with goodwill, hospitality, friendliness and social enjoyment. These days, it is often frowned upon as it leaves lovely burgundy stains wherever it is spit and also stains your teeth permanently. If you want some betel, it’s very cheap and very accessible. You can even buy bottles of different ingredients to add to the mix in order to suit your taste. At a few cents a quid, it’s a very cheap buzz. Of course, it apparently causes cancer, but what doesn’t these days?
Government Induced Frustration
During my first day in the country, I found out first-hand how the Myanmar government makes it difficult for tourists to get to the country. My original plan was to visit Yangon, then head to Bagan and finally Mandalay. The problem, however, was that I assumed that since there was a flight from Chiang Mai to Mandalay, that there would be a flight from Mandalay to Chiang Mai – this was not the case. The next option I considered, in order to avoid having to take a bus back from Mandalay to Yangon, was to fly to Tachilek, near the Thai border in the north, and then cross overland. It knew it was possible to cross at this location, but apparently you can only leave for the day. You can’t leave the country for good via Tachilek unless you have a special permit, which takes about two weeks to obtain! I’m assuming the Thai officials also have something to do with this bizarre rule. Basically, if you want to get to Thailand, you have no choice but to fly out of Yangon to either Bangkok or Chiang Mai.
The Golden City
In terms of sites, the Shwedagon Paya (Paya = Pagoda = Temple) has to be one of the most impressive sites in Southeast Asia, along with Prambanan and Borobodur in Indonesia and Angkor Wat in Cambodia. At nearly 100 metres high, the site is visible from many parts of the city. The main stupa is painted with over three tones of gold and was built in the 18th century, though the site dates from at least the 16th century. Surrounding the main Paya are eighty-two other buildings, that make you feel like you’ve entered a religious city, as opposed to a religious site. With all the gold, mirrors and brightly painted and well-maintained structures, Shwedagon Pagoda is a photographers dream. The best time to visit the site is either in the early morning or just before the sun goes down. First, you’ll get much nicer colours in your photos, and second you won’t burn your feet on the hot tiles since it is mandatory that you take your shoes off before entering the temple.
The next site, standing right around the corner from the first hotel I stayed at, is the over 2000 year old Sule Paya. Though it is only forty-six metres high, it is quite an impressive site, especially at night when multiple neon lights are turned on, attracting worshipers, tourists and touts. The area surrounding the Paya is also a pretty happening spot, with the locals sitting around sipping tea and eating small meals (by my standards).
The temple with the most fascinating story behind it is the Botataung Pagoda, also known as the Buddha’s First Sacred Hair Relic Pagoda. In the 6th century B.C., Buddha was enlightened at the foot of the Bodhi-Tree in Buddha Gaya, India. Two brothers, Tapussa and Bhallika of Okkla (now modern-day Yangon), journeyed to India and met Buddha on the 49th day after he was enlightened. They offered him honey cakes and took refuge in the Buddhist Doctrine. The Buddha, who, according to the flyer I was given, knew that Buddhism was to flourish in Myanmar, gave eight strands of hair to the brothers. Back in Okkla, the two brothers presented the strands of hair to King Okkalapa. The hair relics were placed on the site where the Botataung Pagoda is located for people to worship, and the two brothers were then given a strand each. One of the brothers built the Botataung Pagoda, where three strands are enshrined, and the other strands were brought to the Theinkothara Hill, where the Shwedagon Pagoda was built. One of the strands of hair even survived the Royal Air Force bombing in 1943, when the Pagoda was destroyed. I wonder what kind of conditioner Buddha used.
Should I? Shouldn’t I?
Many people question whether or not it is a good idea to visit Myanmar. Some human rights group insist that visiting the country lends support to the military regime, while others argue that it is the only way for the locals to interact with the rest of the world. It is possible to minimize your support of the military regime, by not staying at state-owned hotels, not taking tours through Myanmar Travel and Tours and avoiding flights on Myanma Airways and other government-owned transportation. What is so bad about the Slorc’s military regime? Here’s one example:
The Myanmar authorities continue to deny the existence of the practice of forced labour in the country. According to the Government of Myanmar, the concept of forced labour is not applicable to Myanmar, because the people of Myanmar are voluntarily participating in labour for community development, such as the construction of Pagodas, monasteries, schools, bridges, roads, and railways. The Burmese people delight in giving free labour in return for Buddhist merit. People living in villages near the various projects are said to be frequently forced to contribute labour under the threat of reprisal. How bad is the labour situation in Myanmar versus other countries of the world? For the first time in the history of the International Labour Organization (ILO), it has called on ILO member states, employers’ and workers’ organizations and international organizations to review their relations with the country.
There are also some interesting signs posted around the city by the SPDC. Around the corner from my hotel, a large red sign in English read:
People’s Desire
– Oppose those relying on external elements, acting as stooges, holding negative views
– Oppose those trying to jeopardize the stability of the State and the progress of the nation
– Oppose foreign nations interfering in the internal affairs of the State
– Crush all internal and external destructive elements as the common enemy
If you pick up a copy of the local English newspaper, The New Light, you’ll also see this exact statement in every single issue. I wonder how many people actually read and follow the propaganda. Why are they not written in Burmese? Just around the corner from the first sign was another interesting billboard, which basically welcomed tourists to Myanmar.
Westerners and Western Influence
How few tourists are there in Yangon? While wandering on my first night, I ran into two other Canadians who were on my flight. The next day for lunch I ate at the table beside the Japanese couple who sat besides me on the plane. While on my way to town from the Lao embassy, I saw three others who were on my flight.
As there is only so much rice and noodles I can take, I decided to check out some of the “Western” restaurants in town. The local burger joint near my hotel made great fries, but their beef burger turned to mush when you applied a small amount of pressure to the bun! It was quite disgusting, but I ate it. I also checked out Yangon’s favourite donut chain, J’s Donuts, and the results were much better. Though a little small and dry, the donuts did taste like donuts, so I was happy! They made for a great late night snack as I watched car after car crash at the Grand Prix in Brazil.
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