Hennin – EOP 16E1/Ethernet converter – 4E1+1Gigabit PDH Multiplexer
Conical hennins
These appear from about the mid-century, initially only among aristocratic women, though later spreading more widely, especially in the truncated form. Typically, the hennin was 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) high, but might be considerably higher. The tops of some of these conical hats were pointed while others were truncated, ending in a flat top. It was generally accompanied by a veil that usually emerged from the top of the cone and was allowed to fall onto the woman’s shoulders or even to the ground, or was pulled forward over the hennin, often reaching over the woman’s face.
The hennin was worn tilted backward at an angle. It was made of light material, often card or a wire mesh over which a light fabric was fixed, although little is known of the details of their construction. There was often a cloth lappet in front of the hennin covering part of the brow, and sometimes falling onto the shoulders to either side. There is very often a short loop seen on the forehead (right), presumably to adjust the hennin forward, and perhaps even to hold it on in wind.
The most fashionable women plucked their necks and brow hairline so that no stray hairs escaped from the edge of the hennin. The hair was tied tightly on the scalp and usually hidden inside the cone (possibly one end of the veil was tied to the hair and wrapped round, with the free end being pulled through the hole at the tip of the cone). However some images show long hair worn loose behind the hennin.
Nowadays, the hennin forms part of the costume of the stereotypical fairytale princess. There are some manuscript illuminations that show princesses or Queens wearing small crowns either round the brim or at the top of the hennin; it is likely that the very small crown of Margaret of York, Duchess of Burgundy (now in the Treasury of Aachen Cathedral) was worn like this for her famously lavish wedding celebrations in 1468.
Definition
Various writers on costume history use hennin to cover a variety of different styles. Almost all agree that the steeple-cone style was a hennin, and the truncated (“flowerpot”) versions, and many also include the heart-shaped open-centred fabric tubes of the earlier part of the century. Some also use the term to cover beehive-shaped fabric head-coverings of the mid-century (as in the Van der Weyden workshop painting in the Gallery). Others also use it for the head-dresses divided to right and left of the early part of the century, such as those in which Christine de Pisan is usually depicted (see Gallery). In some of these only white cloth is visible, but in later examples worn by aristocrats rich fabric can be seen through translucent veils. Some use it for the horned hairstyle with a wimple on top.
Gallery
French hennin of c.1460 is worn with several white veils, one reaching to the face (nb the white cresent at the tip of the “steeple” belongs to the figure behind).
Maria Portinari of Bruges wearing a high but still truncated hennin with a veil hanging from the top and black lappets or (possibly) underhood, 1476-78.
Truncated hennin, Burgundy, ca. 1480
Hennin worn with braids, Hans Holbein the Elder, 1500-01. By now hennins had reached Basle in Switzerland, but were rather out of date in Paris or Burgundy.
Christine de Pisan presents her book to Queen Isabeau of France. She and her ladies wear jewelled heart-shaped stuffed or hollow “bourrelets” on top of hair dressed in horns. Christine wears a divided hennin covered in white cloth.
Isabella of Portugal, Duchess of Burgundy in a divided hennin. Copy of original of 1445-50.
Jean Fouquet, France c1455-60. The ladies-in-waiting wear very high divided hennins.
Divided hennin
Hair is pulled back in an embroidered “beehive” hennin and covered by a short veil. The veil reaches the eyebrows. Burgundy, ca. 1455.
Workshop of Rogier van der Weyden, Portrait of a young woman of the Burgundian gentry wearing a “beehive” or perhaps truncated cone hennin, Burgundy, 1460s. Part of the veil comes forward to cover the eyebrows.
The hennin in fairy tales: Warwick Goble illustration, from Giambattista Basile’sStories from the Pentamerone, 1911
See also
1400-1500 in fashion
Tantur
Capuchon
External links
Images of Burgundian conical hennins
Castle Garden Creations Hennin Ensemble designed from historical manuscripts
Constructing the Headdresses of the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries, paper by Marie Vibbert (Lyonnete Vibert), Known World Costume Symposium Proceedings (2005).
(French) Coiffures fminines Le Hennin
Burgundian wedding c1470, from the Getty, with a great variety of head-dresses.
References
^ M. Vibbert, “Headdresses of the 14th and 15th Centuries,” The Compleat Anachronist, No. 133, SCA monograph series (August 2006)
Boucher, Franois: 20,000 Years of Fashion, Harry Abrams, 1966.
Kohler, Carl: A History of Costume, Dover Publications reprint, 1963, ISBN 0-486-21030-8
Laver, James: The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams, 1979
Payne, Blanche: History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS
Vibbert, Marie, Headdresses of the 14th and 15th Centuries, The Compleat Anachronist, No. 133, SCA monograph series (August 2006)
Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Hennin
Categories: Costume design | Hats | Headgear | History of clothing (Europe)
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