Shawl
The Kashmiri shawl
The shawls made in Kashmir occupy a pre-eminent place among textile products; and it is to them and to their imitations from Western looms that specific importance attaches. The Kashmir shawl is characterized by the elaboration of its design, in which the “cone” pattern is a prominent feature, and by the glowing harmony, brilliance, depth, and enduring qualities of its colours. The basis of these excellences is found in the very fine, soft, short, flossy under-wool, called pashm or pashmina, found on the shawl-goat, a variety of Capra hircus inhabiting the elevated regions of Tibet. There are several varieties of pashm, but the finest is a strict monopoly of the maharaja of Kashmir. Inferior pashm and Kirman wool a fine soft Persian sheep’s wool are used for shawl weaving at Amritsar and other places in the Punjab, where colonies of Kashmiri weavers are established. Of shawls, apart from shape and pattern, there are only two principal classes: (1) loom-woven shawls called tiliwalla, tilikar or kani kar sometimes woven in one piece, but more often in small segments which are. sewn together with such precision that the sewing is quite imperceptible; and (2) embroidered shawls amlikar in which over a ground of plain pashmina is worked by needle a minute and elaborate pattern.
Knit shawls
Triangular knit lace shawls are usually knitted from the neck down and may or may not be shaped. In contrast, Faroese lace shawls are knitted bottom up and contain a centre back gusset. Each shawl consists of two triangular side panels, a trapezoid-shaped back gusset, an edge treatment, and usually shoulder shaping.
References
”Shawl”. Encyclopdia Britannica (11th ed.). 1911.
Irwin, John. The Kashmir Shawl. London: HMSO, 1973.
Wilson, Kax. “Kashmir Shawls from Europe and Asia.” Art & Antiques, January-February 1981, pp. 69-73.
Worth, Susannah. “Early 20th Century Embroidered Shawls.” Needle Arts, December 1995, Vol. 26, No. 4, pp. 38-41.
Worth, Susannah. “Embroidered China Crepe Shawls: 1800-1870.” Dress, 1986, Vol. 12, pp. 43-51.
^ Shawl in The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language: Fourth Edition. 2000
Shawls of Kashmir
Norfolk Museums & Archaeology Service-Norwich Shawls
See also
Wikimedia Commons has media related to: shawls
cloak
stole
Hesquiat woman wrapped in a shawl.
Painting of a woman carrying an Indian shawl, 1822.
Example of a triangle-shaped woollen shawl.
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