Alpaca fiber
Types of alpacas
Suri Alpaca
There are two types of alpaca: Huacaya (which produce a dense, soft, crimpy sheep-like fiber), and the mop-like Suri (with silky pencil-like locks, resembling dread-locks but not actually matted fibers). Suris are prized for their longer and silkier fibers, and estimated to make up between 19-20% of the Alpaca population. Since its import into the United States, the number of Suri alpacas has grown substantially and become more color diverse. The Suri is thought to be rarer, possibly because it is less hardy in the harsh South American mountain climates, as its fleece offers less insulation against the cold.
History of alpacas
Alpaca have been bred in South America for thousands of years. Vicuas were first domesticated and bred into alpacas by the ancient tribes of the Andean highlands of Peru, Argentina, Chile and Bolivia. In recent years alpacas have also been exported to other countries. In countries such as the USA, Australia and New Zealand breeders shear their animals annually, weigh the fleeces and test them for fineness. With the resulting knowledge they are able to breed heavier-fleeced animals with finer fiber. Fleece weights vary, with the top stud males reaching annual shear weights up to 7 kg total fleece and 3 kg good quality fleece. The discrepancy in weight is because an alpaca has guard hair which is often removed before spinning.
History of fiber industry
The Amerindians of Peru used this fiber in the manufacture of many styles of fabrics for thousands of years before its introduction into Europe as a commercial product. The alpaca was a crucial component of ancient life in the Andes, as it provided not only warm clothing but also meat. Many rituals revolved around the alpaca, perhaps most notably the method of killing it: An alpaca was restrained by one or more people, and a specially-trained person plunged his bare hand into the chest cavity of the animal, ripping out its heart. Today, this ritual is viewed by most as barbaric, but there are still some tribes in the Andes which practice it.[citation needed]
The first European importations of alpaca fiber were into Spain. Spain transferred that fiber to Germany and France. Apparently alpaca yarn was spun in England for the first time about the year 1808 but the fiber was condemned as an unworkable material. In 1830 Benjamin Outram, of Greetland, near Halifax, appears to have reattempted spinning it, and again it was condemned. These two attempts failed due to the style of fabric into which the yarn was woven a type of camlet. It was not until the introduction of cotton warps into Bradford trade about 1836 that the true qualities of alpaca could be developed into fabric. It is not known where the cotton warp and mohair or alpaca weft plain-cloth came from, but it was this simple and ingenious structure which enabled Titus Salt, then a young Bradford manufacturer, to use alpaca successfully. Bradford is still the great spinning and manufacturing center for alpaca. Large quantities of yarns and cloths are exported annually to the European continent and the US, although the quantities vary with the fashions in vogue. The typical “alpaca-fabric” is a very characteristic “dress-fabric.”
A pair of Huacaya alpacas near an Inca burial site in Peru
Due to the successful manufacture of various alpaca cloths by Sir Titus Salt and other Bradford manufacturers, a great demand for alpaca wool arose which could not be met by the native product. Apparently, the number of alpacas available never increased appreciably. Unsuccessful attempts were made to acclimatize alpaca in England, on the European continent and in Australia, and even to cross English breeds of sheep with alpaca. There is a cross between alpaca and llama a true hybrid in every sense producing a material placed upon the Liverpool market under the name “Huarizo”. Crosses between the alpaca and vicua have not proved satisfactory. Current attempts to cross these two breeds are underway at farms in the US. According to the Alpaca Owners and Breeders Association, alpacas are now being bred in the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, UK, and numerous other places.
In recent years, interest in alpaca fiber clothing has surged, perhaps partly because alpaca ranching has a reasonably low impact on the environment. Individual U.S. farms are producing finished alpaca products like hats, scarves, and footwarmers. Outdoor sports enthusiasts recognize that its lighter weight and better warmth provides them more comfort in colder weather, so outfitters such as R.E.I. and others are beginning to stock more alpaca products. Using an alpaca and wool blend such as merino is common to the alpaca fiber industry in order to improve processing and the qualities of the final product.
In December 2006 the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 to be the International Year of Natural Fibres, so as to raise the profile of alpaca and other natural fibers.
Natural Dyed Alpaca Wool
Before dyeing the alpaca fiber must go through other stages:
i. Selection of wool: according to color, size and quality of fiber; ii. “Escarminado”: Removal of grass, dirt, thorns, and other impurities; iii. Spinning; iv. Washing: to remove all the dirt and grease. Once the fiber is clean then it is possible to begin with the process of dyeing.
Natural dyeing: (recipe used by andean artisans): To dye 1 kg. of alpaca wool with cochinilla (natural dye). Boil 5 liters of water in an aluminum can with 100 grs. of cochinilla for an hour. Sift and put the wool in the water. Boil again for an hour and ad 50 lemons cut in halfs. Then take out the wool and hang for drying. Note: For dyeing with another natural dye (native plants) add 2 kgs, of the products to the water and boil.
References
^ a b c d e f Quiggle, Charlotte. “Alpaca: An Ancient Luxury.” Interweave Knits Fall 2000: 74-76.
^ Stoller, Debbie, Stitch ‘N Bitch Crochet, New York: Workman, 2006, p. 18.
^ “Alpaca.” 22 April 2008. HowStuffWorks.com. <http://animals.howstuffworks.com/mammals/alpaca-info.htm> 19 July 2009.
^ http://www.properfashion.com/women-s-wear/giorgio-armani-women.html
^ a b The Quality and Processing Performance of Alpaca Fibres Australian Government RIRDC 2003
^ International Alpaca Association <http://www.aia.org.pe/aia.html?32>
^ Davison/Holt 2004
^ Fiber Characteristics of U.S. Huacaya Alpacas by Angus McColl, Yocom-McColl Testing Laboratories, Inc., Chris Lupton, Texas A&M University System, and Bob Stobart, University of Wyoming 2004
^ Alpha Tops
^ “Alpaca Registry” (HTML). Alpaca Registry. 7-05-01. http://alpacaregistry.net.
^ a b “Alpaca.” The New Encyclopdia Britannica. 11th ed. 1911.
External links
PDF with information on the history, care, and knitting practicalities dealing with alpaca fiber. Published by Interweave Press.
How to Care Your Alpaca Garments Published by Peru And Arts Press.
Article Natural Dyed Alpaca Wool Published and maintained independently.
Specialist Spinning Interesting information on British processing of Alpaca at Hagger’s Mill in Oxfordshire.
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Categories: Textile arts | Animal hair productsHidden categories: Wikipedia articles incorporating text from the 1911 Encyclopdia Britannica | All articles with unsourced statements | Articles with unsourced statements from June 2007 | Articles with unsourced statements from April 2007 | Articles with unsourced statements from December 2007
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