The Two Most Common Snow Blower Problems
Snow blowers are made to run in the cold weather but when it gets REALLY cold outside, funny (or not so funny things) can develop. Same goes for a snow blower that is stored outside or in an enclosure where the temperature is at or near the same temperature as outside. If you have a heated garage, or a way to heat your garage or shed or wherever you store your snow blower, then you are way ahead of the game.
I don’t know how winter is in other parts of the country but, here in the Northeast, when there is a snow storm the temperature is generally in the twenties or low thirties. But sometimes it snows when the temperature is in the single digits or close to zero and that is when some new and not so nifty things start happening to snow blowers stored in the cold. Handles won’t depress. Impellers won’t engage. Engines that were running fine won’t start. Belts start to smoke and squeal when engaged. Cables break and starters won’t engage.
1) Manual or electric starter won’t engage: This is why it is a good investment to buy the optional electric starter for your snow blower. If one starter doesn’t work the other one might. Again, safe heat applied in the proper location may solve the problem temporarily but it will probably happen again when the weather temperature drops. If your manual starter won’t engage or the rope stays out, it should be removed. There is generally a metal “dog” that freezes. It should be fairly obvious when the starter is removed where the “dog” or metal tab that engages into the starter cup is located. You shouldn’t have to remove the pulley but you should remove the center screw so the lube gets down into the pivot area. In this case, any sort of grease is usually NOT recommended. Use WD40 or similar liquid lubricant. Grease just gets gummy in cold weather, especially on a smaller gadget such as the starter dog.
If your electric starter sounds like it is spinning but it is not turning the engine over, then chances are the starter gear is frozen to it’s shaft. Thaw with safe heat. To help prevent freezing, a light lubricant on the gear shaft is recommended. On some machines you may be able to use a spray lube with the plastic nozzle extension on the shaft without removing the starter – but removal of the starter may be required. That way you can slide the gear all the way out and spray the shaft with low temp lube underneath where the gear slides or parks when not in use.
2) No start: A snow blower that ran fine the last snow storm but now won’t start, especially if it is very cold out, might just have a small amount of moisture in the tank, fuel line or carb that is frozen. Thawing out safely and adding gas line anti-freeze should do the trick but, if there is too much water in the fuel, you may have to remove the fuel line and drain the tank. But that doesn’t remove water in the carb. Some older snow blowers have a spring loaded drain on the bottom for that purpose. If not, you can crack the high speed adjustment screw or jet (as the case may be) open a few turns to drain the float bowl. This a messy job as the fuel usually goes in all directions or down your arm so have a coffee can and some rags ready.
Now you need to find some of the best snow blowers. There are plenty of site out there where you can learn more about best snow blower but you need to be sure to read thoroughly before making any decisions.
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