Bucharest for the Morbidly Fascinated
Somewhere beyond the imposing arc of the Carpathian Mountains, amidst the sweeping hills that paint the Romanian backdrop, and deep within the confines of a city defined by its historical relevance, Dracula is weeping. To his dismay, “vampire,” a term that used to instill the cold sense of dread in all men’s souls, is now more likely to inspire a Twilight-obsessed teeny-bopper to wear a Team Edward shirt than a crucifix. Yet, for those of us who still prefer the classic imagery of Bram Stoker’s Dracula and lust after a bone-chilling, heart-pounding adventure, Bucharest is an ideal destination. Said to be the final resting place of Vlad the Impaler (Vlad Tepes), the countryside is etched by a dark past that continues to attract morbidly curious thrill seekers and literature buffs to the city, like moths to a flame.
Within a comfortable walking distance from many Bucharest hotels, a self-guided journey begins, both chronologically and geographically, at Old Princely Court. Located in the heart of one of the oldest areas in Romania, locals believe this structure acted as an access point into a sprawling underground dungeon maintained by the bloodthirsty Vlad. Time and corrosion have taken their toll on this morosely sinister site, however, leaving behind only a small collection of free standing walls, massive archways, and lonely burial sites to hint at the horrors that came to pass there.
The second destination, Snagov Monastery, is a short train ride away, giving travelers a moment to relax and a chance to take in the countryside’s picturesque landscape. The air around this site, where Vlad is believe to be buried, is heavy with an ominous sense of death, and an imposingly tower looms off on the horizon, adding to the unshakable feeling that someone is watching.
At this point, timid adventurers crawl back to their respective Bucharest hotel rooms and under the covers, but fearless men and women continue into the neighboring village of Arefu. As night falls around the village, everyone gathers around a cracking campfire, where history and folklore collide. Locals tell the tales of Vlad the Impaler, and tourists edge closer to one another, keeping a watchful eye out for bats.
I’d like to conclude with just one piece of advice for anyone gutsy enough to hunt down Dracula (particularly those who spend the night at Arefu). Please, remember to pack holy water and plenty of garlic. Your target may just show up, and his skin does NOT sparkle.