Mobile home Fridge Restoration Points
Motorhome Family fridge Repair Suggestions
This info is basic ways to help with diagnostics and repair of your RV refrigerator. Most of these repairs really should be performed with a professional RV technician. We simply cannot accept any liabilities from lack of knowledge or injuries caused with the following information. It’s advocated which you obtain and follow factory service manual procedures before attempting any repairs or service procedures. Currently these repairs at RV Trax, Inc. service facility. Phone # (850)866-6999 or visit our website at www.rvtraxinc.com.
Poor cooling performance associated with an RV refrigerator might be caused by several conditions. The very first recommendation would be to make sure for any refrigerator recalls. Our website at www.rvtraxinc.com has quick links to manufacturer recalls. Click here for a RV Education 101 refrigerator video to assist you see the operation of your respective refrigerator. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiODEcUAkeU&feature=related
LEAKING COOLING UNIT
A solid ammonia smell with the refrigerator food compartment, or even the outside rear of the refrigerator indicates a leaking cooling unit. It is a dangerous condition, causing a fireplace. A visual inspection need to be performed guiding the refrigerator by detaching the outside wall vent cover. Inspect for virtually every green or yellow residue throughout the refrigerator coils, boiler area or sheet metal base. It may appear as being a dried liquid stain or a powder type residue. There is a chemical called Sodium Chromate blended with the ammonia, hydrogen and water solution that circulates from the cooling unit to support prevent corroding in the cooling unit tubing. In case your leak develops, the sodium chromate changes from your liquid to the powder within the presence of air. If such conditions exist, unplug and disable the refrigerator from use immediately, to prevent a potential life-threatening threat. This means the cooling unit or refrigerator will have to be replaced.
In case the boiler is warm along with the absorber tank is hot, this means than a leak has changed and the hydrogen gas has escaped. The liquid ammonia will not put on a vapor without worrying about hydrogen gas atmosphere thus it circulates for a liquid causing this disorder. The cooling unit will have to be replaced. Replacement parts is obtainable at www.rvtraxinc.com
TESTING THE COOLING UNIT
This test can be by feel. Just for this test, you will employ your hands. Use caution to avoid burns, if you’ll find any cooling unit malfunctions.
A nicely operating cooling unit can have equally warm heat temperatures in the center chapters of the boiler tubes and also the absorber tank.
Each time a cooling unit malfunctions because of a blockage, the boiler section may perhaps be to hot to touch as well as the absorber tank are going to be relatively cool. Any blockage decreases the free flow in the solutions and definately will inhibit or completely prevent proper cooling operation. An obstruction is normally caused when the refrigerator is operated in an off level condition. Regular operation in off level conditions creates a cumulative cooling unit blockage damage starting the degradation process. This damage also occurs from excessive heat from either the L.P. Flame or improper electric heating elements.
The temperature that is certainly generated from the propane flame and the electric heating elements is a heat force that initiates the cycling movement in the solutions inside cooling unit. The refrigerator utilizes gravity to go the solutions in the system once the flame has lifted the resolution the top of the cooling unit. The passages which the solution must travel through simply have a little slope and then any off level condition will hinder the gravity flow. How are you affected on this situation, is usually that the solution from the cooling unit overheats and crystallizes into solid particles that form and lodge into places forming restrictions.
There is not the right way to reverse this problem. A temporary procedure that may restore cooling is always to get rid of the refrigerator and lay it within the right side for at least 12 hours, rotate upside down not less than 12 hours, rotate on the left side for around 12 hours. Switch it back upright not less than another 12 hours. Restore power for not less than 24 hours and test for proper cooling.
ADVANCED TESTING METHODS
Be sure that there is absolutely no ammonia smell or green yellow residue present. If these the weather is present, Never OPERATE THE REFRIGERATOR. Verify the refrigerator unit is level. Unplug the capability cord and power down the LP gas. When you’ve got a 3 way fridge that runs using 12 volt DC, caution can be used to stop by using this element due to this test. Locate the 110 volt heating unit(s) leads for the cylindrical casing surrounding the boiler flue, approximately One foot across the LP flame inspection cover. These leads is going straight to terminals located into your black control box guiding the refrigerator. Disconnect the leads from the control module terminals. Modify an influence cord with 2 insulated male flat spade terminals to plug directly to the 110 volt atomizer wire terminals. When you unit has two 110 volt heating elements, make a Y type jumper for connecting both heating elements together. Polarity matters not. Plug the cord right 110 volt wall plug. In case you are uncomfortable performing this process speak to an authorized RV technician or provide the professionals at www.rvtraxinc.com perform cooling unit testing and repair in your case.
Place a thermometer right glass of water inside refrigerator food compartment and close the threshold. It is important to operate the glass of water in this test the way it equalizes the temperature reading. After 12 hours the temperature should be 43 degrees F. or colder. After 24 hours the temperature needs to be while in the mid 30’s or lower. If these temperatures usually are not reached and maintained, the cooling unit or refrigerator have to be replaced. Verify that heat is emitted from your refrigerator coils to make sure that proper flames electrical operation. With not a flame, cooling operation will never be present. This may indicate possible faulty atomizer(s).
ELECTRIC Heater TESTING
The electric heater(s) provide the necessary heat for refrigerator operation on shore power. The element(s) could be checked that has an ohm meter. Always disconnect the electricity cord and 12 volt source before performing this test. Locate and disconnect the 110 volt heating unit wires. Connect an ohm meter round the terminals and check the resistance. A zero reading indicates a shorted element. An infinite reading indicates an open element. Either way, replace the heating element. The right reading is different from type to type. Consult the service manual for specific model resistance measurements. Electric elements are easy to remove and replace by twisting the element between the two while applying upward pressure.
L.P. FLAME INSPECTION OR OUTAGE
It is hard to express to by looking at the flame, if it is an effective flame or slightly reduced. The flame should be a blue color. If your flame appears yellow or incorporates a squashed appearance, it is deemed an indication of your restricted flue. When operating in the LP gas mode, the products of combustion are removed from the flue. After a period of time, soot and rust particles will accumulate inside top of the flue. Road vibrations will loosen these deposits causing the theifs to crumble and fall towards the burner below. The finer particles get caught in the burner itself, whilst the larger particles stick to the top of the the burner causing difficulty with the flame sensor. Because the fine particles accumulate within the burner, it alters the burners volume and shape. This translates into improper flame and affects the temperature output of the burner. Knocking to the burner flue while observing for just about any falling rust particles to the burner section indicates it’s service the burner and flue tube.
Washing the BURNER AND FLUE
The primary steps to attempt are going to clean the flue burner tube along with the orfice. Eliminate the rear access cover within the lower right side of the refrigerator. This can be a tin cover you remove to get into the burner components. The flue is positioned right above the burner flame. Use compressed air to blow out the flue along with the surrounding areas. In fact rust is cleaned from area, take away the screw securing the thermocouple or igniter electrode. The thermocouple is often a narrow tube, and the electrode is actually a metal probe located just across the burner protruding in to the flame. Eliminate the thermocouple or electrode to get into the screws holding the burner assembly set up. Eliminate the burner tube and soak it in alcohol for at least 15 minutes. Then allow it to air dry or use compressed air. The orifice is just to the left of the burner tube and is also a tiny brass colored nut which has a very small hole there. Remove this and allow it to soak in alcohol for not less than Quarter-hour. Usually do not probe or poke anything to the orifice. It will permanently damage the orifice. Allow to air dry. Once soaked and air dried, hold up with a source of light. You must see light shining with the orifice opening.
Carefully re-assemble everything and lightweight the burner flame. A normal flame will be a “hard blue” color without having a yellow tip, drafting within the flue, emitting a little roaring sound. There isn’t a flame adjustment that is made. Proper LP pressure tests and flows must obtain correct flame output. If you ever still have a flame outage problem, next the electrical circuitry or controls is most likely the cause.
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